All photographs copyright © 1996, Don Baccus
This short guide to the Klamath Basin is based on a set of directions which I sent with an article to Oregon Outside magazine, to help their graphics staff draw a map (article appears in their March/April 1996 issue).
I've added short descriptions to help folks make sense of the directions.
The main attraction of the Klamath Basin in winter is the large population of wintering bald eagles, up to a thousand in some years. Several hundred roost in the Bear River Valley south of Klamath Falls, Oregon and can be seen flying to the refuge at first light. Flights are largest in January and February.
The eagles are attracted to the area due to the large numbers of waterfowl
which winter here. Though the area experiences very cold weather during
much of the winter, large bodies of water like Tule and Upper Klamath Lake
often remain unfrozen. Large masses of waterfowl prevent
some of the smaller bodies from freezing over during short spells of
severe weather as they mill about.
With such large numbers of waterfowl in the area, some are certain to die each night of hunger, disease, or old age. Bald eagles, never eager to hunt when a freshly dead and well-refrigerated carcass can be found, scavenge each morning. By noon, most have fed and are roosting in scattered groups all over the basin.
Drive south from Klamath Falls on Highway 97 to the town of Worden, which largely consists of a truck stop named the Worden Cafe. Directly south of town, turn west (right) on the first road, which is marked as leading to Ashland.
The road crosses an unprotected railroad crossing almost immediately. Just beyond, take the dirt road to the left. Drive a couple of hundred yards along this road until you have a clear view to the west, and park.
The eagles fly out at dawn from the roost which lies
several miles to the southwest of this point, passing
overhead to the refuge behind you.
The Miller Island Unit of the Klamath Wildlife Area is a refuge
managed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. It features
marshes, dikes, and ponds. There's an old homestead with cottonwoods
to wander around which generally has great-horned owls around, and
many of the old barns contain barn owls. The island, like many
of the refuge areas in the Basin, hosts large numbers of snow,
white-fronted and Canada Geese.
While most of the federally-managed Tule Lake and Klamath refuges are
closed to the public during the winter, to minimize disturbance to the
wintering waterfowl and raptors, the dikes of the Miller Island are
open for exploration. Use common sense when doing so, as waterfowl
expend needed energy when flushed. However, hiking on the island
on a cold, brilliantly sunny day, with snow crunching underfoot and
flocks of snow geese and swans flying just overhead can be a highlight
of a trip to the area.
Go south from Klamath Falls on Highway 97. After crossing the Klamath River, watch for a signed road leading to the Klamath Wildlife Area off to the west (right).
There is a parking area with an information board, map,
and pamphlets almost immediately on the right. The dikes
due north of the information kiosk lead to marshy ponds
often filled with waterfowl. Following the road until the
pavement ends leads to a dirt track into another section of
the marsh, which can be driven to another parking area unless
snow or mud makes it impassable. The dikes in this area are
also good for waterfowl and harriers frequent the area in good
numbers
Just west of the flyout lies an area of private fields and pastures
which are dissected by two-lane roads. This entire area hosts
large numbers of red-tailed, rough-legged and other wintering
hawks.
The Lower Klamath NWR is where you're most likely to find eagles during the day, scavenging dead ducks, geese, and tundra swans. For a couple of years, recently, a whooping swan was in the area, just off Stateline Road. Birders flew in from all over the country, but there have been questions about the bird's origin, as some waterfowl keepers have them in their collections. There's been a whooper swan further northeast at Summer Lake the past two winters, perhaps the same bird.
The directions below will lead you along Stateline Road, with
excellent wildlife viewing on either side, and dirt roads for
exploring the Lower Klamath Refuge as well. Tule Lake itself
is filled with a wide variety of waterfowl all winter long.
Refuge Headquarters has been home to a pygmy owl in some years,
Take Highway 97 south of Klamath Falls to the Oregon/California
border. Immediately upon entering California, turn left on
Stateline Road. This road goes past large sections of the
Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge and offers excellent
wildlife viewing.
After leaving the refuge, but before intersecting with California
SR 139 which leads southeast to downtown Tulelake, watch for
signs to the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters.
The signs lead you south (right) along Hill Road. The
Headquarters will be found a few miles south, on the right,
and is large and obvious.
Maps showing the auto tour route in the Lower Klamath Refuge, and directions to Lava Beds National Monument can be found here.